Does Retinol Make the Skin Thinner?

November 26 2025 – Dr. Luise Berger

In short: No — over time, retinol does not make the skin thinner, but thicker.
The ingredient stimulates collagen production, strengthens the skin’s structure and improves cell renewal. In the beginning, however, the skin may feel thinner or more sensitive — this is due to accelerated cell turnover, which sheds dead skin cells more quickly. In this article, you’ll learn which initial reactions are normal, how retinol truly works, how to use it correctly — and why it is considered one of the most effective anti-ageing ingredients in the long term.

Why the Skin Can Feel Thinner at First

Many people using retinol for the first time report that their skin feels more sensitive or thinner during the first few weeks. This is completely normal — and not a sign of skin damage.

Retinol accelerates the skin’s natural renewal process. Old, hardened skin cells are shed more rapidly, while new, fresh cells form beneath. As a result, the skin can appear more refined or slightly translucent for a short period — but in reality, it is already becoming stronger from within.

This so-called “retinol adjustment phase” typically lasts only a few weeks. After that, the skin barrier stabilises, hydration improves, and the complexion becomes smoother, more even and more resilient.

Typical Initial Reactions When Starting Retinol

During the adjustment phase, mild irritation can occur — usually harmless and temporary:

• Tightness or dryness
• Fine flaking
• Mild redness or sensitivity
• Temporarily increased need for hydration
• More blemishes surfacing from deeper layers

Tip: If your skin feels tight during this time, soothing ingredients such as panthenol, squalane, hyaluronic acid or ceramides help strengthen the barrier and make the retinol introduction phase noticeably more comfortable.

How Retinol Actually Works on the Skin

Retinol — also known as vitamin A — is one of the most thoroughly researched ingredients in modern skincare. Its effects go far beyond the surface: retinol activates cell activity in deeper layers of the skin, stimulates collagen production and supports the skin’s natural renewal processes.

Unlike many short-acting cosmetic ingredients, retinol produces long-lasting improvements in skin structure. It refines the complexion, improves firmness and smooths uneven texture. It works on multiple levels simultaneously:

Stimulation of collagen production: activates fibroblasts in the dermis to produce new collagen and elastin — increasing density and elasticity.
Boosting cell turnover: old keratinised cells are shed more quickly, revealing smoother, more even skin.
Regulation of sebum production: helps reduce blemishes and enlarged pores.
Brightening pigmentation: accelerated cell renewal replaces unevenly pigmented cells more quickly; retinol helps even out the skin tone.
Improving scar healing: supports the regeneration of damaged tissue and can visibly smooth the appearance of old acne or injury scars.
Antioxidant protection: counteracts free radicals responsible for premature skin ageing.

Did you know?

Retinol is one of the few cosmetic ingredients with scientifically proven anti-ageing benefits. Studies show that regular use over several months measurably increases skin density and boosts collagen levels. In an independent TV test on taff and SAT.1 Frühstücksfernsehen, the DOC BERGER EFFECT Retinol Serum demonstrated its wrinkle-reducing effects impressively — clearly outperforming conventional drugstore products.

How to Use Retinol Correctly

For retinol to deliver its full potential, the right concentration, proper application and correct combination with other skincare ingredients are crucial. Especially for beginners, the rule is: less is more — and patience pays off.

1. Start Slowly

Begin with a low concentration (0.1–0.3%) and apply it two to three evenings per week. Once your skin adjusts to the ingredient, you can increase usage to every other night and eventually to nightly application.

2. Apply in the Right Order

After cleansing, apply the retinol serum to dry skin — followed by a hydrating night cream to support the skin barrier. When using multiple serums: apply the thinnest textures first, followed by richer ones.

3. Sunscreen Is Mandatory

Retinol accelerates cell turnover, making the skin more sensitive to light. Always use a daytime moisturiser with SPF (30 or higher). This protects against UV-induced collagen breakdown and preserves the long-term benefits of retinol.

A word from our expert

“From a medical perspective, I can only say this: I rely on ingredients whose effectiveness is scientifically proven — and retinol is clearly one of them. I’m 48 years old, and I see the results not only on my own skin but also every day on my patients: the skin appears firmer, smoother and more even.

Many who have concerns about retinol or believe they can’t tolerate it are often simply using it incorrectly — or are using overly aggressive or unstable formulas with irritating additives.

I want to take away the fear: if you invest in a high-quality retinol product, introduce it slowly, wear sunscreen during the day and remain patient during the adjustment phase, you will be thrilled with the long-term results.

Every skin benefits from retinol — and anyone who doesn’t use it misses out on one of the most effective ways to visibly slow down skin ageing.”

Dr. Luise Berger

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